Build this tiny house

Sugar House Google Sketchup plans now available for free download!

2011-09-15T09:09:00.000-07:00

The original Google Sketchup file of the complete Sugar House plans used for creating the plans and pictures on this site is now available for download!

You'll need to download and install Google Sketchup to view the plans.

You must also agree to the following:

By clicking on the following link, you agree to read and agree to the License and Disclaimer enclosed in the folder with the file, and you agree to assume all liability and responsibility related to any use of the plans.

You also agree to not repost the plans elsewhere, offer them for sale, or use them commercially.

Okay, I agree! Let me have the plans!

Sugar House plans 20 -- Conclusion

2010-08-07T12:03:00.000-07:00

This wraps up the series on the Sugar House tiny house plans. I certainly hope you enjoy them and find them useful.

Feel free to put the design to any use you desire -- as a tiny house, an office, a garden getaway, vacation cabin, whatever you like.

If you do build from the plans, I'd love to hear from you. I hope you'll consider sharing your building experience here, and share photos of your efforts as well. I'll continue to get updates from Blogger whenever someone posts a comment.

My original intention was to build this structure in my back yard. Since then, though, I've thought about how fun it would be to find a couple of acres somewhere and build several of them scattered about the property to serve as bedroom bungalows, with a central, larger structure providing a full kitchen and other amenities. We all can dream, can't we? :)

As to why I decided to make the plans available free, consider it my contribution to smaller carbon footprints and greener living. And to just plain fun.

Anyway, thanks for visiting!

-- Walt

Complete index to the plans.

Sugar House plans 19 -- Completing the porch

2010-08-07T09:08:00.000-07:00

Before beginning this phase of construction, check your local codes on porch and deck handrail construction. Make adjustments to the plans where necessary.

Use standard 5/4" decking (1 1/4" x 5 1/2") on the porch, with 1/8" gaps between planks. Allow planks to overhang 1 1/8" on sides and front.

Trim the height of the posts. Use a chalk line to mark the posts 3' 2" above the top of the decking. In the design, the top point is cut at a 30 degree angle. Take your time with this -- securely clamp and tack a board to the posts to guide each saw cut to prevent slip-ups.

The top rail is a 2 x 4. The rail beneath it, and the bottom rail, are 2 x 3's ( 1 1/2" x 2 1/2"). Support rails at posts with small metal angle brackets, or fasten them with pocket screws underneath using a Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System or something similar. Check building codes in your area for proper fastening.

The balusters are 2 x 2's cut 2' 6 1/2" long and mitered 45-degrees at the bottom. Note the baluster spacing is 1/8" wider on the front sections of the railing than it is on the side sections.

A cutaway view of the front right corner of the porch railing.

Same corner, this time viewed from the inside looking out.

Top view of the porch, top rails and main structure omitted for clarity. Note how the deck planking extends into the portico inset.

Sugar House plans 18 -- Siding, window boxes, and trim

2010-08-06T07:31:00.000-07:00

The tiny house was designed to be clad with a layer of 3/8" sheathing, followed by house wrap, topped off with fiber-cement siding. Keep in mind when choosing siding that it's a good idea to choose a style consistent with the scale of the tiny house. For instance, with a vertical siding pattern, simulated plank grooves set 6" apart will look more appropriate and to scale than if spaced 12" apart.

Allow the fiber-cement siding to extend a little lower than the sheathing on all bottom edges, so it can serve as a drip edge.

If installing sheets of siding material vertically, rip them to widths that will avoid any horizontal butt joints around the front door and dormer (illustration 18-07.jpg)

As you can see in this next picture, the window boxes sit under the window sills, so water runs off the sills and into them. They're an integral part of the window trim. The side trim butts against them.

Construct the window boxes out of 3/4" (one-by) pressure-treated material. Drill half-inch holes in the bottoms for drainage. You might consider finding or making water-resistant liners for them. The triangular pieces of the support brackets are cut from two-by stock.

Window trim is 3/4" stock ripped to 3" wide. Trim all four downstairs windows. Don't trim the dormer or diamond windows.

For trimming under the eaves on the ends, I'd suggest installing 2 x 6 pieces cut to the same lengths as the verge rafter pieces. Miter the pieces at the bottom flush with the walls. Finish siding for the tiny house can butt against them, making its installation much easier.

For an extra touch, you might consider installing some profiled plywood under the eaves, such as a beadboard pattern. Use construction adhesive and a lot of brads to secure them.

All that remains now is decking the porch and building its railing.

Sugar House plans 17 -- Framing the shed extension

2010-08-05T08:49:00.000-07:00

The shed extension is designed to be framed after the main structure's 3/8" sheathing is installed, but before the finish siding is applied. The framing is dimensioned to butt against the sheathing.

However, the shed's two outboard exposed rafters are to be installed after the main structure's finish siding and the shed siding has been installed.

The shed extension roof has a 7/12 pitch, same as the dormer. Shed rafters are constructed from 2 x 4's instead of 2 x 6's as used on the main structure and dormer roofs. The shed rafter header is fabricated from a 2 x 6.

Install siding so that 1 1/2" of the framing is exposed on the left and right side of the door opening, and 3/4" shows at the top, to provide a shoulder for the door to close flush.

Install 2 x 2 blocking between the shed rafters along the doubled top plate. Fill the gap with galvanized screen later.

As designed, the shed wasn't meant to be insulated. You can omit sheathing on the shed extension and just use finish siding to clad it. That way the doors, made from the same siding, will sit flush. If you prefer, of course you can sheath and side it just like the rest of the tiny house.

Allow a narrow gap or slot in the finish siding for flashing the shed roof:

Here are the shed stud locations:

The dimensions of the shed rafter header. Top angle is 7/12 pitch to match the shed roof pitch. Cut it 5' 5 1/2" long:

Shed rafter dimensions. You'll need to cut five. Remember, the pitch is 7/12:

Framing side view. The center stud is notched. Its dimensions are given below.

Another view showing framing and how the notched center studs on the side walls support the verge rafter. Install 2 x 2 blocking (not shown) between the shed rafters along the doubled top plate. Fill the gap above them with galvanized screen later.

Front view (actually looking toward the rear of the tiny house), which also shows the rafter spacing:

Here are the dimensions of the notched center stud. The angle should match the roof 7/12 pitch.

The dimensions for the exposed barge rafters, which are installed following siding installation. The easiest way to get a match is to cut the butt end angle, then hold the board against the shed verge rafter, butted against the house siding, then trace around the end.

A view showing how siding should be installed, with barge rafters attached afterward:

The shed roof decking has an overhang on the sides. This is to provide some protection of the barge rafters without installing a drip edge:

A suggestion for fabricating the shed doors, viewing from the inside surface of the doors. The Z frame is made of 3/4" (one-by) stock. (You can use two-by if you like.) Make sure it clears the framing on the inside. Mount the doors with strap hinges of your choice. Allow about a 1/8" space all around each so they'll swing and close easily. Adjust the vertical dimension of the doors to match the overhang of your siding on the rest of the structure.

Sugar House plans 16 -- Building the diamond windows

2010-08-04T11:57:00.000-07:00

Now we'll fabricate the two diamond windows and the dormer window. If you're really handy with a power saw, you can build them on site. The windows are built up in strips, so no routing is required. Assemble them with brad nails or finishing staples.

Build the two diamond windows out of good quality boards, clear of knots. I'd use poplar, because it's straight grained, cuts cleanly, and takes paint well. You could also use a good quality pine.

As mentioned in an earlier post, the glass pattern pictured here is by ebay stained glass artist/seller jeanmur. The window is dimensioned to hold one of her standard sized (14 1/2" square) panels. Have your glass panels on hand before building. You'll want to allow about 1/32" all around for wiggle room, so the sash dimensions may need adjusting.

You'll start by building a simple square box, 21" by 7 1/2" deep. Since everything will be painted, it's not necessary to miter the corners, but you can do so if you prefer.

The worst enemy of a window like this is standing water. Before you install the glass, use a round rasp and sandpaper to make a downward sloping channel in the inside of the bottom corner to allow rain water to drain. It doesn't have to be big or unsightly. A small channel with a shallow slope will do fine.

Below is the profile view. If you want to be able to open the window, you'll need to reduce the sash size slightly and angle it to allow room for the swing. If you hinge it at the bottom, install a safety chain to protect the sash and users.

Prime the sash with oil based paint and allow it to dry before installing the glass. Use glazier's points as well as glazing putty to secure the glass panel. Use a mildew resistant putty. For some reason, one of the most commonly sold brands in our area is one of the least mildew resistant. It turns black within weeks, showing right through paint. You'll certainly want to avoid something like that. Check with local builders for the best type and brand to use in your area.

To install, use shims to center the window in the diamond opening in the rake wall, with an even gap all the way around. Position it so it protrudes inward on the framing 1/2", and protrudes to the outside of the rake wall framing 1 1/2". Mark the outside of the jamb before installing to assist with positioning. After the sheathing and siding is installed, the jamb should stand out about 3/4".

There's no additional trim applied around these three windows after installing, so butt the siding material against them and seal all around with a bead of top quality caulk.

Now for the dormer window. Construction is similar, with a few changes in dimensions. If you decide to use another stained glass panel in this window instead of single strength glass, adjust the width of the shoulder strip to accomodate it. Again, start with a simple box, this time rectangular and 5 1/2" deep.

Have the glass cut about 1/8" smaller than the opening (cut it 14 3/8" x 6 3/8") to allow 1/16" wiggle room around the edges.

Once complete, shim, center, and level the window in the dormer framing opening, allowing it to stand out 1 1/2" to the outside, and 1/2" to the inside, just as you did the diamond windows.

Sugar House plans 15 -- Color ideas!

2010-08-04T07:09:00.000-07:00

Now's a good time to take a break and think about color.

Posted below are a few renderings of the Sugar House plans showing some possible color combinations, from the sublime to cheerfully bright. These are the renderings that appear in the color ideas video. The colors you ultimately choose or are entirely up to you, of course!

Sugar House plans 14 -- Completing the dormer framing

2010-08-03T07:39:00.000-07:00

Two of the dormer's rafters will butt against the header we installed between trusses 3 and 5. Let's go ahead and mark their location on that header.

Here's a view from another angle with the roof decking omitted for clarity:

Next, frame the dormer front wall from 2 x 4 stock. It will sit on the top plate of the main front wall. Personally, I would assemble this in place on the structure, rather than prefabricate it.

Next, install the corner posts we assembled in the previous post. Here's how they align with the dormer wall:

Let's take another look at the two dormer rafters that butt the header. As you can see, they have bird's mouth cutouts where they rest on the top plate of the dormer's front wall.

Here are the dimensions for cutting those two rafters. Use 2 x 6 stock. The pitch is 7/12. Use a speed square for the angles.

Next, mark the location of the rafters on the dormer wall top plate, and go ahead and install them.

Now we need to mark where the top edges of the remaining rafters will fall on the main roof decking. To do this, pick a straight piece of two-by stock and lay it flat across the main roof decking above the dormer. Let it slide down until it just touches the tops of the two dormer rafters you just installed. Place a level on top of the board and make sure it's square and level, then mark the line underneath it.

Here's where the line falls according to the drawn plans.

Next, mark the spacing for the remaining rafters:

And here's how to cut them. Again, they're marked at a 7/12 pitch. Cut four, and install them.

This next step is optional, but I would do it. Cut a couple of 2 x 4 pieces 10" long and install them as follows to give the outboard rafters a little extra support and to assist with alignment. Location isn't too important, as long as they are even with each other and set well back from the front for the sake of appearance.

Next, install blocking between the rafters atop the dormer front wall top plate. Use 2 x 3 material. You can make your own by ripping two-by stock down to 2 1/2" wide. This will allow a gap at the top of the blocking for ventilation. Install galvanized screen in the openings later.

Now put the dormer roof decking on. Use 1/2" material, just as on the main roof. There'll be a gap at the top. Install a combination flashing/ventilation strip there when you install the roofing.

And here's one more look at the completed dormer framing from underneath the front.

You can go ahead and apply roofing felt to the roof decking at this point, and even shingle it if you like. Paint the exposed rafters first and install drip edge all around.

Sugar House plans 13 -- The dormer, part 1

2010-08-02T09:35:00.000-07:00

Now it's time to frame the Sugar House dormer.

The corner posts of the dormer are fabricated from tripled 2 x 4's, and sit on the main roof decking, supported by the doubled trusses underneath. The bottoms of the posts are cut to an 18/12 pitch to match the main roof slope, while the tops are cut to a 7/12 pitch, the slope of the dormer roof.

They are notched to receive the doubled top plate of the dormer's front wall. In this view the roof decking and most of the trusses are hidden for clarity.

The corner posts might seem pretty complex to build, but we'll take it step by step and knock them right out.

The first thing to do is cut six pieces of 2 x 4 stock 24 inches long. Stack them in three's and clamp them together. Don't nail them yet. This is an end view:

Mark the side of one of the tripled pieces as follows. Use a speed square to mark the pitch. Now you can tack the pieces together with a few nails, but make sure you keep nails well clear of where you'll be cutting in order to avoid injury or damage to your saw. Then go ahead and make the cuts.

Now use the square to mark a line across the side at right angles to the post at the following location

Now use the square to continue the line around the front and back faces, two inches in. And that's where you'll cut the notch. Use a band saw or a hand saw to make the downward top cut.

Now do the same thing to the other post, but in a mirror image, so the notches will face each other like this:

Finish nailing the posts securely. Once installed, the dormer corner studs will set against the corner posts like this, and continue down to the front wall's top plate:

Then the doubled top plate of the dormer wall will rest in the notches:

And the angled part of the top of the posts will support the dormer's verge rafters.

And that's it for the corner posts. Next up, we'll complete the dormer.

Sugar House plans 12 -- Main roof decking and ventilation

2010-07-30T09:09:00.000-07:00

Roof decking is 1/2" plywood. Use a grade suitable for roof decking.

The main roof should be decked now because part of the dormer framing and some of its rafters will rest on the decking.

Besides shingles, the most important consideration for long roof life is ventilation. The reason we left vent spaces above the blocking between the trusses was so that an effective ridge vent can be installed at the peak of the Sugar House roof.

There are ridge vent products suitable for use on 18/12 pitch roofs. One such product is Rapid Ridge by Benjamin Obdyke. Whichever brand or type you choose to use, be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation.

If you're planning to insulate the tiny house, install vent chutes underneath the roof decking between the trusses. The extruded foam types are inexpensive, and they'll allow air to continue to reach the bottom of the decking after insulation is installed. They're often called "rafter vents," and they're available at big box building supply stores. Durovent is one brand.

If construction is delayed after decking is installed, throw tarps over everything to protect from rain until the dormer is complete and roofing felt can be applied.

The roof decking should be installed flush with the faces of the rafters at the ends of the Sugar House and at the dormer opening. Since the rafters aren't set on standard centers, you'll need to make some cuts to get the decking seams to fall on them. Snap chalk lines on the decking to mark the centers of the rafters to assist with nailing.

Here's how the decking should sit on the ends of the rafters. Drip edge should be installed prior to shingling.

And here's a cutaway view showing the decking at the dormer rafter header.

And here are the overall dimensions for estimating material.

Sugar House plans 11 -- Ladders and lookouts

2010-07-29T10:58:00.000-07:00

The ladders are the assemblies that sit atop the rake wall and support the roof overhang and the barge rafter. The lookouts are the "rungs" of the ladder.

Remember those eight additional rafters you cut earlier? It's time to put them to use. (If you didn't cut them then, don't worry. They're easy enough to cut on a pair of sawhorses. Refer back to the roof truss dimensions post to get the measurements.)

Pick the four straightest and best looking rafters and set them aside for use as the barge rafters. Use the other four to cut the pieces for the verge rafter blocking.

Here's the roof framing:

And here's the ladder assembly:

Let's start at the top. Here are the ridge board dimensions. You'll need two, one for each end of the Sugar House. They're cut from 2 x 12 stock. Cut the angle at the top to match the 18/12 roof pitch.

The lookouts are cut from 2 x 6 stock. You'll need eight cut 2' 10 1/2" in length, and four cut 2' 10" long. The shorter ones butt against the 1/2" plywood truss gussets, like the ridge boards do at the peak. The barge rafter, rake wall, and much of the verge rafter blocking is omitted in this view for clarity:

Here's a side view showing the alignment:

And this view shows how the verge rafter blocking sits on the rake wall:

Here are the measurements for cutting the pieces of the verge rafter blocking:

And here are the measurements for marking the butt positions of the lookouts on trusses 1 and 7:

Assemble it all, nail on the barge rafters, and the ladders are complete. Time to install the main roof decking.

New video! Sugar House color ideas

2010-07-28T18:12:00.000-07:00

Sugar House plans 10 -- Locating the trusses on the top plate

2010-07-26T16:06:00.000-07:00

Now that the walls are complete, it's time to start putting up the trusses. Be sure to consult a local professional on how to work safely on a roof with a pitch this steep. There are lots of good roofing books available with information you'll need if you want to tackle the job yourself.

If the steep pitch seems too daunting, or you're not sure you can do it safely, by all means hire a pro to do the job.

As you may recall from an earlier post and in the roof details video, we are numbering the trusses 1 through 7, left to right, as viewed from the front. This will help us with marking and positioning them on the top plates of the Sugar House walls.

First things first, though. If you're going to install some sort of flooring in the loft, now's the time to attach a joist to the inside of the rake walls. It's cut from a 2 x 6, and aligned flush with the rake wall's bottom and lower corners.

The rake walls will be positioned centered on the side walls, with an inch of overhang front and back. This side view shows the positioning. (The rake wall joist is also shown here.)

Here's how to mark the positions of the trusses and rake walls on the top plates. Note that there are some differences in dimensions between the front wall and rear wall. The center truss (number 4) does not rest on the front wall. And the gussets are eliminated on the inside front surfaces of the doubled trusses (numbers 3 and 5). Here's the rear wall:

And here's the front wall:

Here are the dimensions for the header for the dormer rafters. It's cut from a 2 x 12. You'll need to install this between doubled trusses 3 and 5, before installing the center truss number 4. This will provide a nailing surface for the center truss, which is trimmed in the front to allow for the dormer. You will also need to install a crosswise joist between trusses 3 and 5 to nail the lower chord of truss 4. You can follow the plans if you like (see the post on roof truss dimensions), but ultimately the location of this piece, and the length of the lower chord of truss 4, is up to you, depending on how large an opening to the loft you desire.

As you position the trusses and rake walls and plumb them, temporarily nail 2-by's at angles across the surfaces to hold them in place until the roof decking is installed.

Install blocking between the trusses along the tops of the front and rear walls. Use the truss layout diagrams above for lengths. Cut the blocking from 2 x 8 material. This will allow a gap under the roof decking for ventilation. Install galvanized screening in the gap later. Do not install blocking between trusses 3 and 5 in the front. That's where the dormer framing will be installed. The blocking should be installed flush with the front of the wall framing and front edges of the gussets, and vertically plumb. Hold off on installing the last piece of blocking on each end until after the verge rafters are installed, which we'll cover in the next post.

Sugar House plans 09 -- The rear wall

2010-07-26T10:45:00.001-07:00

Framing the rear wall is simple and straightforward. All studs are set on 16-inch centers. As with the front wall, leave off the top layer of the doubled top plate until the wall is raised. Then install the top plate, tying it to the side walls.

Sugar House plans 08 -- The front wall

2010-07-25T09:38:00.000-07:00

Frame the front wall without the inset portico first. After raising it you can add the portico framing. Leave off the top layer of the doubled top plate until the wall is raised. It ties to the side walls.

Here are the stud locations on the plates (inset portico included):

This view of the portico framing omits the top layer of the doubled top plate:

These rear views of the front wall give two more views of the portico framing:

Sugar House plans 07 -- The side walls

2010-07-23T16:08:00.000-07:00

Now that the trusses and rake walls are done, set them aside and clear the Sugar House floor. It's time to frame the walls.

(The trusses should be stacked flat or kept vertical, and kept dry, to avoid warpage.)

If you're going to tackle the rest of the project single handed, I recommend getting a copy of Working Alone: Tips and Techniques for Solo Building.

Wall framing on the Sugar House is pretty straightforward. Have your windows and door on site so you can read manufacturer's instructions and adjust the framing as needed. The plans call for windows to fit a 24" x 36" opening. The rough door opening as drawn is 40" wide by 83 1/16" high. (Hang the door to swing to the inside of the Sugar House. The angled corners of the portico may interfere with an outside-swinging door.)

Frame all four walls before raising them, setting each one aside as you finish it. If you'd rather raise each one as soon as you finish it, brace them from the outside of the structure so the floor will remain clear for framing the next one.

You may wish to go ahead and nail on some 3/8" sheathing before raising the walls. (That will later be followed by a layer of house wrap and the siding material of your choice.)

You can preinstall the top layer of the doubled top plate on the side walls, but wait until the front and back walls are raised before trying to install the top layers on them. Since they extend outward to tie into the side walls, there won't be room to preinstall them once the end walls are raised.

The side walls are symmetrical and identical. Build two, of course. Fabricate window header beams from two 2 x 6's, with 1/2-inch plywood sandwiched between.

Here's where to mark the stud locations on the plates of the side walls.

Sugar House plans 06 -- The rake walls

2010-07-20T10:00:00.000-07:00

We come now to what I consider the most challenging part of constructing the Sugar House -- framing the rake walls.

The rake walls are an isosceles triangle 8 feet across its base, and 6 feet tall at its center. The side corners are then trimmed 1-1/2" on each side to allow room for blocking, and the top corner trimmed down 1 1/8" to provide a base for the ridge board. The final dimensions are 7' 9" wide at the base and 5' 10-7/8" tall at the centerline.

The rake walls are constructed from 2 x 6 material. (They're of wider material than the standard 2 x 4 walls of the first floor, so they protrude outward. This allows the siding to serve as its own drip edge at the joints. See the roof details video for an explanation.) You will need to build two identical rake walls, of course, one for each end.

My approach to framing the rake walls would be to draw a complete full-sized pattern on the Sugar House floor, then cut and dry fit all the pieces. I would tack them together lightly and check everything for accuracy before final nailing.

If you want to take a different approach, feel free to!

The key is to take it step by step.

I would build the corners untrimmed as the picture below shows (letting the triangle come to its sharp points at the corners), then trim the corners last. (If you choose to do that, avoid nailing too close to the ends of the corners until the cuts are done, so you don't damage your saw or risk injury.)

First snap out a triangle on the Sugar House floor. The triangle will measure eight (8) feet across the base.

Snap a base line and mark points eight feet apart. Find the mid point and snap a line at a right angle to serve as a centerline. (Use the 3-4-5 method to set the centerline square.)

Mark a point on the centerline six (6) feet up from the base. Then snap lines to the corners on the base to mark the sides of the triangle. Then start measuring, marking, and snapping in the lines of the rest of the framing until you have a complete template.

The miter angle at ends of the bottom plate is 56 degrees. That's 56.3/123.7 degrees, to be even more precise).

The sides, where they meet the bottom plate, are mitered at 56.3/123.7 degrees.

At the interlocking joint at the top, the board ends are mitered at 67.4/112.6 degees.

The pointed center board atop the window opening is mitered at 33.7/146.3 degrees.

The diamond window opening is a square set at 45 degrees.

You don't need all that precision and math, though. The easiest thing to do is to lay the pieces on the full-sized template you've made and mark them, using a speed square to extend the marks around the boards. You can simply pick up the angles from the template and set your saw's miter using a miter gauge.

Again, be sure to trim the corners to the rake wall's final dimensions:

Sugar House plans 05 -- Roof truss dimensions

2010-07-19T09:59:00.000-07:00

As in the roof details video, let's number the truss assemblies 1 through 7, as viewed from the front of the structure.

Trusses 1, 2, 6, and 7 are identical. Trusses 3 and 5 are doubled, with the rafter ends trimmed off on the outer layer. Truss 4, the center truss, is like the rest, but the front is trimmed off to allow for the dormer.

The next pictures show the basic truss assembly dimensions. You'll need to build nine (9) of these basic assemblies.

Trusses are constructed from 2 x 6 material. The roof pitch is 18/12. Use a speed square to mark the cuts.

Assemble the trusses on the Sugar House floor. Use a chalk line and snap out a full size truss pattern. Temporarily nail guide blocks to the floor decking to serve as a jig to speed assembly.

Cut eight (8) additional full-length rafter pieces to the same dimensions. (The rafter pieces are often called "top chords" in truss construction). These will be used later for the barge rafters and verge rafter blocking.

The next two pictures show the dimensions of the fill blocking to be installed between the gussets. This blocking is cut from 2 x 4 material and will provide nailing for interior finishing.

Cut eighteen (18) of these:

And nine (9) of these:

The center truss, truss number 5, will be trimmed short as follows:

The next two pictures give the gusset dimensions. Cut gussets from 1/2" plywood. You'll need twenty-six (26) of these:

And you will need fourteen (14) of these gussets for the peaks of the trusses:

The gussets are positioned as follows:

Apply gussets to both sides of the truss assemblies. On trusses 3, and 5, the doubled trusses, the gussets are omitted on the inner front faces:

The preceding picture also shows how trusses 3 and 5 are doubled. The inner "layer" (the side toward the dormer) has full length rafters. Butt cut the rafter ends on the outer layer (the side away from the dormer) flush with the gussets as shown.

Sugar House plans 04 -- Roof details video

2010-07-15T16:37:00.000-07:00

Quick update

2010-07-12T09:08:00.001-07:00

Just a quick post today to let you know I'm working on a video for the next installment of the Sugar House plans. Hope to have it up in a few days.

Sugar House plans 03 -- Framing the floor

2010-07-08T11:01:00.000-07:00

Before you start actually banging lumber together, it's a good idea to go ahead and buy the door and windows you intend to use. That way you can read the installation instructions, double-check the measurements, and adjust the framing as needed for a proper fit.

Also, think about underfloor moisture protection and insulation. Depending on your location, or the intended use of the structure, you might not need or want any. But if you do, in southern, humid climates, a poly sheeting moisture barrier would be applied across the top of the framing below the floor decking. In the north, the sheeting would go across the bottom of the framing. Insulation bats would go between joists and will require hangers. Check with builders in your area for the best ideas for your location.

So let's get started!

All floor framing is 2x6 lumber. Set the joists on 16-inch centers. Use pressure-treated material throughout this part of construction. For strength, durability, and safety, use joist hangers wherever you have an otherwise unsupported "t-bone" junction.

You'll be tripling one header to provide support for the door and nailing for the porch deck boards. On either side of that tripled header, you'll be installing a couple of joists built up with 3/4" plywood sandwiched between two 2-by-6's. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward framing.

Check everything for level and squareness as you proceed, and adjust and shim as needed.

The illustrations below cover the details. Click them for larger versions.

Here's the basic floor plan, minus the porch and rear shed extension:

Here's a three-quarter view of the framing, complete with porch and rear shed extension. The right porch post is omitted for clarity:

This is the basic floor framing overview, without the front porch. Notice the perimeter sills are all doubled:

If you plan to build the structure on a slab, the overall dimensions are the same, with no front porch. (Eliminate the shed extension if you desire, and just pour a 12' x 8' slab.) Make sure it's square and level:

The next illustration shows the front porch floor framing. The porch posts are 4 x 4's. Allow them to stand at least 42" above the top of the floor framing. Trim them to height later. The length they extend below the porch depends upon your building site, and whether you choose to set them directly in the ground or on concrete pier blocks.

Note carefully the position of the posts, especially at the corners. They are set flush to the inside of the framing, and protrude a half inch outward. Lag bolt the porch to the main structure's front floor sill. Check the building codes in your area for proper fastening and support:

The following two views give more detail on the forward part of the main house floor framing, without the front porch showing:

And here are two rear views showing the placement of the rear shed extension:

Overlay the main structure floor and the shed floor with 3/4" decking of your choice. Stagger the joints, making sure they land on joists. The porch will be planked with 5/4" deck boards later.

If you are going to build the front porch, cut an inset in the main structure's floor decking to allow the porch decking boards to extend into the portico up to the front door. Here are the cutout's dimensions:

Now that we have this big level surface to work on, it's time to put roof trusses together. We'll look at those details starting with the next post.

Sugar House plans 02 -- some views, and framing notes

2010-07-06T08:45:00.000-07:00

Here are some views of the "Sugar House" tiny house. You can load them into your favorite image editing program and start trying out colors and paint schemes. Click them for larger versions.

The first thing to consider when planning to build any structure is site location. Make sure rain water will run away from the structure, not toward it or under it.

Also avoid building too close to any destructive trees. In the South, the sweetgum tree is one to stay away from. It has an aggressive and persistent root system, and if you do any excavating and damage the roots, it will throw branches over the next few months. Depending on the size of the tree, some of those thrown branches can be as large as trees themselves, and quite destructive and dangerous when they fall. Check for potential problem trees in your area before building.

The next thing to consider is the type of foundation you'd prefer. You could go with a simple slab, or brick or concrete block piers, or blocks laid on gravel, or skids laid on leveled gravel-filled trenches. There are many options here, and this might be a good place to check with a local professional to see what will work best for your area and for the intended use of the structure.

Do remember that in some locations, holding a structure down is nearly as important as holding it up. Be sure to choose a foundation that will be right for you and your area.

And pre-plan for all utility hookups you want to include.

The best all-around book I've seen for construction and framing methods, including foundations, is Graphic Guide to Frame Construction (For Pros By Pros).

In the next post we'll go over the Sugar House floor plan and floor framing dimensions.

Free plans! Introducing "Sugar House," a tiny house you can build

2010-07-02T23:15:00.001-07:00

Hi, I'm Walt, and here's a video tour of a tiny house I designed:

You can see a picture of the cottage that inspired the design here.

The stained glass window pattern is by ebay designer/seller jeanmur.

Here are the front and side views with basic dimensions:

I'll be posting all the details and measurements in the weeks ahead, starting after the holiday weekend.

Have a happy Fourth, and see you soon!