Sugar House Google Sketchup plans now available for free download!

The original Google Sketchup file of the complete Sugar House plans used for creating the plans and pictures on this site is now available for download!

You'll need to download and install Google Sketchup to view the plans.

You must also agree to the following:

By clicking on the following link, you agree to read and agree to the License and Disclaimer enclosed in the folder with the file, and you agree to assume all liability and responsibility related to any use of the plans.

You also agree to not repost the plans elsewhere, offer them for sale, or use them commercially.

Okay, I agree! Let me have the plans!

Sugar House plans 20 -- Conclusion

This wraps up the series on the Sugar House tiny house plans. I certainly hope you enjoy them and find them useful.

Feel free to put the design to any use you desire -- as a tiny house, an office, a garden getaway, vacation cabin, whatever you like.

If you do build from the plans, I'd love to hear from you. I hope you'll consider sharing your building experience here, and share photos of your efforts as well. I'll continue to get updates from Blogger whenever someone posts a comment.

My original intention was to build this structure in my back yard. Since then, though, I've thought about how fun it would be to find a couple of acres somewhere and build several of them scattered about the property to serve as bedroom bungalows, with a central, larger structure providing a full kitchen and other amenities. We all can dream, can't we? :)

As to why I decided to make the plans available free, consider it my contribution to smaller carbon footprints and greener living. And to just plain fun.

Anyway, thanks for visiting!

-- Walt

Complete index to the plans.

Sugar House plans 19 -- Completing the porch

Before beginning this phase of construction, check your local codes on porch and deck handrail construction. Make adjustments to the plans where necessary.

Use standard 5/4" decking (1 1/4" x 5 1/2") on the porch, with 1/8" gaps between planks. Allow planks to overhang 1 1/8" on sides and front.

Trim the height of the posts. Use a chalk line to mark the posts 3' 2" above the top of the decking. In the design, the top point is cut at a 30 degree angle. Take your time with this -- securely clamp and tack a board to the posts to guide each saw cut to prevent slip-ups.

The top rail is a 2 x 4. The rail beneath it, and the bottom rail, are 2 x 3's ( 1 1/2" x 2 1/2"). Support rails at posts with small metal angle brackets, or fasten them with pocket screws underneath using a Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System or something similar. Check building codes in your area for proper fastening.

The balusters are 2 x 2's cut 2' 6 1/2" long and mitered 45-degrees at the bottom. Note the baluster spacing is 1/8" wider on the front sections of the railing than it is on the side sections.

A cutaway view of the front right corner of the porch railing.

Same corner, this time viewed from the inside looking out.

Top view of the porch, top rails and main structure omitted for clarity. Note how the deck planking extends into the portico inset.

Sugar House plans 18 -- Siding, window boxes, and trim

The tiny house was designed to be clad with a layer of 3/8" sheathing, followed by house wrap, topped off with fiber-cement siding. Keep in mind when choosing siding that it's a good idea to choose a style consistent with the scale of the tiny house. For instance, with a vertical siding pattern, simulated plank grooves set 6" apart will look more appropriate and to scale than if spaced 12" apart.

Allow the fiber-cement siding to extend a little lower than the sheathing on all bottom edges, so it can serve as a drip edge.

If installing sheets of siding material vertically, rip them to widths that will avoid any horizontal butt joints around the front door and dormer (illustration 18-07.jpg)

As you can see in this next picture, the window boxes sit under the window sills, so water runs off the sills and into them. They're an integral part of the window trim. The side trim butts against them.

Construct the window boxes out of 3/4" (one-by) pressure-treated material. Drill half-inch holes in the bottoms for drainage. You might consider finding or making water-resistant liners for them. The triangular pieces of the support brackets are cut from two-by stock.

Window trim is 3/4" stock ripped to 3" wide. Trim all four downstairs windows. Don't trim the dormer or diamond windows.

For trimming under the eaves on the ends, I'd suggest installing 2 x 6 pieces cut to the same lengths as the verge rafter pieces. Miter the pieces at the bottom flush with the walls. Finish siding for the tiny house can butt against them, making its installation much easier.

For an extra touch, you might consider installing some profiled plywood under the eaves, such as a beadboard pattern. Use construction adhesive and a lot of brads to secure them.

All that remains now is decking the porch and building its railing.

Sugar House plans 17 -- Framing the shed extension

The shed extension is designed to be framed after the main structure's 3/8" sheathing is installed, but before the finish siding is applied. The framing is dimensioned to butt against the sheathing.

However, the shed's two outboard exposed rafters are to be installed after the main structure's finish siding and the shed siding has been installed.

The shed extension roof has a 7/12 pitch, same as the dormer. Shed rafters are constructed from 2 x 4's instead of 2 x 6's as used on the main structure and dormer roofs. The shed rafter header is fabricated from a 2 x 6.

Install siding so that 1 1/2" of the framing is exposed on the left and right side of the door opening, and 3/4" shows at the top, to provide a shoulder for the door to close flush.

Install 2 x 2 blocking between the shed rafters along the doubled top plate. Fill the gap with galvanized screen later.

As designed, the shed wasn't meant to be insulated. You can omit sheathing on the shed extension and just use finish siding to clad it. That way the doors, made from the same siding, will sit flush. If you prefer, of course you can sheath and side it just like the rest of the tiny house.

Allow a narrow gap or slot in the finish siding for flashing the shed roof:

Here are the shed stud locations:

The dimensions of the shed rafter header. Top angle is 7/12 pitch to match the shed roof pitch. Cut it 5' 5 1/2" long:

Shed rafter dimensions. You'll need to cut five. Remember, the pitch is 7/12:

Framing side view. The center stud is notched. Its dimensions are given below.

Another view showing framing and how the notched center studs on the side walls support the verge rafter. Install 2 x 2 blocking (not shown) between the shed rafters along the doubled top plate. Fill the gap above them with galvanized screen later.

Front view (actually looking toward the rear of the tiny house), which also shows the rafter spacing:

Here are the dimensions of the notched center stud. The angle should match the roof 7/12 pitch.

The dimensions for the exposed barge rafters, which are installed following siding installation. The easiest way to get a match is to cut the butt end angle, then hold the board against the shed verge rafter, butted against the house siding, then trace around the end.

A view showing how siding should be installed, with barge rafters attached afterward:

The shed roof decking has an overhang on the sides. This is to provide some protection of the barge rafters without installing a drip edge:

A suggestion for fabricating the shed doors, viewing from the inside surface of the doors. The Z frame is made of 3/4" (one-by) stock. (You can use two-by if you like.) Make sure it clears the framing on the inside. Mount the doors with strap hinges of your choice. Allow about a 1/8" space all around each so they'll swing and close easily. Adjust the vertical dimension of the doors to match the overhang of your siding on the rest of the structure.

Sugar House plans 16 -- Building the diamond windows

Now we'll fabricate the two diamond windows and the dormer window. If you're really handy with a power saw, you can build them on site. The windows are built up in strips, so no routing is required. Assemble them with brad nails or finishing staples.

Build the two diamond windows out of good quality boards, clear of knots. I'd use poplar, because it's straight grained, cuts cleanly, and takes paint well. You could also use a good quality pine.

As mentioned in an earlier post, the glass pattern pictured here is by ebay stained glass artist/seller jeanmur. The window is dimensioned to hold one of her standard sized (14 1/2" square) panels. Have your glass panels on hand before building. You'll want to allow about 1/32" all around for wiggle room, so the sash dimensions may need adjusting.

You'll start by building a simple square box, 21" by 7 1/2" deep. Since everything will be painted, it's not necessary to miter the corners, but you can do so if you prefer.

The worst enemy of a window like this is standing water. Before you install the glass, use a round rasp and sandpaper to make a downward sloping channel in the inside of the bottom corner to allow rain water to drain. It doesn't have to be big or unsightly. A small channel with a shallow slope will do fine.

Below is the profile view. If you want to be able to open the window, you'll need to reduce the sash size slightly and angle it to allow room for the swing. If you hinge it at the bottom, install a safety chain to protect the sash and users.

Prime the sash with oil based paint and allow it to dry before installing the glass. Use glazier's points as well as glazing putty to secure the glass panel. Use a mildew resistant putty. For some reason, one of the most commonly sold brands in our area is one of the least mildew resistant. It turns black within weeks, showing right through paint. You'll certainly want to avoid something like that. Check with local builders for the best type and brand to use in your area.

To install, use shims to center the window in the diamond opening in the rake wall, with an even gap all the way around. Position it so it protrudes inward on the framing 1/2", and protrudes to the outside of the rake wall framing 1 1/2". Mark the outside of the jamb before installing to assist with positioning. After the sheathing and siding is installed, the jamb should stand out about 3/4".

There's no additional trim applied around these three windows after installing, so butt the siding material against them and seal all around with a bead of top quality caulk.

Now for the dormer window. Construction is similar, with a few changes in dimensions. If you decide to use another stained glass panel in this window instead of single strength glass, adjust the width of the shoulder strip to accomodate it. Again, start with a simple box, this time rectangular and 5 1/2" deep.

Have the glass cut about 1/8" smaller than the opening (cut it 14 3/8" x 6 3/8") to allow 1/16" wiggle room around the edges.

Once complete, shim, center, and level the window in the dormer framing opening, allowing it to stand out 1 1/2" to the outside, and 1/2" to the inside, just as you did the diamond windows.

Sugar House plans 15 -- Color ideas!

Now's a good time to take a break and think about color.

Posted below are a few renderings of the Sugar House plans showing some possible color combinations, from the sublime to cheerfully bright. These are the renderings that appear in the color ideas video. The colors you ultimately choose or are entirely up to you, of course!